tokyo journal

Thinking about Cities, from Vancouver.

2006-12-06T11:56:00.000+09:00

Old Men Pondering in the Park.

Peering through the window of a Boeing 777, I notice a heavy cloud bank lodged into an endless panorama of snowy mountains grasping for the sky. It is December, and by now, all residents of the lower mainland of British Columbia can expect to be blanketed by the mist and rain produced from this perpetual bank of clouds for months to come. Somewhere down there is Vancouver squeezed between the Strait of Georgia and the Coast Mountains. This city of roughly 2 million has some of the most dense living conditions in North America, and yet, upon arrival the city seems relatively quaint and absurdly unoccupied compared to Tokyo. As I board a Vancouver city bus - a common mode of transportation for all ages and classes - I hear Chinese, Spanish, and a language from the Indian subcontinent - I think. Away from the steadfast homogeneity of Tokyo, the level of diversity of this ambitious Canadian city seems more striking than ever.

Vancouver, Somewhere Down There.

Now that I have arrived in Vancouver, I am posting my final journal entry regarding Tokyo. Though this site is hardly exhaustive, my goal was to provide some images and commentary of my three months in Tokyo [and beyond], and this all comes from an American urbanist/aspiring architect based in Canada. As people across the globe leave rural areas for the city, we all have a vested interest in making our cities better. While Tokyo is hardly a utopia, I hope that some of these images begin to suggest alternate ways of thinking about our cities.

Autumn Rides Away.

T

Dining Solitude in the City.

2006-12-05T02:38:00.000+09:00

Finding solitude in Tokyo is no easy task, but there is no shortage of ways to cope. At this Chinese-style ramen restaurant, you first select your order and pay at a vending machine. After being seated at a booth for one at the bar, you mark your meal preferences on a paper menu (i.e., spicy or mild, light or fatty broth) and pass that to an attendant behind the bar. No eye contact is made, since the interface between customer and attendant is only a gap large enough to pass food through. Once your food is delivered, the bamboo curtain is drawn, and you are allowed to enjoy your food in a silent and distraction-free space.

In what was likely a social faux pas, I was able to make eye contact with David, a fellow gaijin, across the bar.

Chinese-style Ramen.
This is nothing like the meager packaged ramen that penny-pinching North American college students know so well. Here, the pork broth is homemade and served with a few hearty pieces of ham. Though enjoyable, I still find Japanese ramen to be much more delicious and healthy.

T

Shibuya Crosswalks.

2006-11-30T01:43:00.000+09:00

The world's busiest crosswalk pulsates through the heart of Shibuya, but I wanted to look at other crosswalks in the area. At some level, each of these crossings holds some amount of promise, uncertainty, and an undeniable element of exhilaration.

Through the Clearing.
A thin curtain of vegetation reveals bright lights in the distance where more shopping opportunities abound.

Super X-Point.
The Shuto Expressway Loop soars overhead, while several pedestrian crosswalks and train lines pass mid-level. Below street level is a major subway station.

Gaze to the Skies.
The onslaught of people, traffic, and billboards compete for your attention, and yet sometimes, an open patch of blue sky can emerge through the clutter to arrest your gaze.

T

Peaceful Discontinuities in the City.

2006-11-28T16:29:00.000+09:00

Rows of buildings, brilliant lights, and hordes of people seem to extend endlessly across the Kanto Plain that surrounds Tokyo. Even though Tokyo lags behind other major world cities in terms of green space, one never knows what to expect around the next corner. When walking between Shinjuku and Harajuku, I discovered this small, quiet, and mostly empty shrine. It takes up a small part of a city block, but it feels a world away from Tokyo.

Cleanse Here.
One should cleanse their hands and mouth with water from the trough before visiting a shrine.

Shrines are associated with the Shinto faith, a primitive and ancient system of faith passed down from a nation of rice farmers to a modern age. Buddhism, Japan's other major religion, spread from India. Many Japanese take part in both Shintoism and Buddhism, and sometimes, a little Christianity for good measure.

Surrounded.

T

Great Golden Ginkgos.

2006-11-27T22:38:00.000+09:00

This year's autumn foliage was not as great as other years, but the Golden Ginkgos were as gorgeous as one could imagine. Other than the fact that the trees give off a slightly unpleasant odor, they're really quite nice, especially from a distance.

T

Beyond Mori Tower.

2006-11-27T21:28:00.000+09:00

These views are from Mori Tower in Roppongi Hills, an ambitious city-within-a-city project that has an abundance of shops, cafes, apartments, a hotel, Virgin Cinemas, office space, and a large art exhibition center / viewing deck on the 52nd floor. This evening was hazy, so the tall tower district of Shinjuku is not visible.

Tokyo Tower and the Shuto Expressway Loop.

Mori Tower at right.

Digital Signage.
Roppongi Hills was designed by the people that brought you the Bellagio Hotel-Casino in Las Vegas. Circulation through the complex is maddening - it's difficult to orient yourself or find your way out, but don't worry. It was intended to be like that. Best solution? Don't visit... well, for too long.

T

Evening at the New York Bar.

2006-11-27T11:51:00.000+09:00

Many of the city's high rises have exquisite restaurants and bars on the upper levels - most of which I will never get to visit. One of Tokyo's most famous high rise bars is Park Hyatt's New York Bar on the 52nd level, which provided much of the backdrop for the movie Lost in Translation.

In the foreground is the lesser tower of the Park Hyatt, which houses the rooftop pool.

T

Tsukiji Fish Market II.

2006-11-26T11:37:00.000+09:00

Frozen Tuna Auction.
The tuna auctions start around the wee hours of 5am and end by 7am. Despite the early hours, the action is fast and tense.

Tuna Inspection.
Auction participants represent wholesalers, large retailers, restaurants, and food processing companies. The tails of the fish are cut off in advance so buyers can expect the color, fattiness, and overall quality of the meat.

Taking Notes.
I arrived near the end of the fresh tuna auction, so these fish were waiting to be transported to their new owners.

Numbers.
Japan consumes one-third of the world's tuna production, amounting to 630,000 tons, or 11 pounds of tuna per person per year. Some of the tuna weigh as much as 880 pounds (or 400 kilograms), and much of the fish is being farmed, especially in the Mediterranean.

Numbered Days.
As globalism continues to diminish the importance of these wholesale markets, the Japanese government has decided to relocate Tsukiji from its prime waterfront property to a less valuable property across the river by 2012. In the future, agents may prefer to purchase fish over the internet instead of going to the market.

Fast and Furious.
Magnified by the delirium of the early morning hours, it's easy to feel like a moving target as workers and motorized carts move briskly through crowds of people. Fish is brought to the market from all over the world by boat, truck, and plane, and these people are responsible for moving 2,000 metric tons of seafood per day.

Tuna Cart.

Massive Tsukiji Market from Above, photo courtesy of wikipedia.
This land will soon be reaping the benefits of high-end development. Perhaps the ghosts of tuna past will be lurking through the site's future boardrooms and hotel rooms?

T

Breakfast at Tsukiji.

2006-11-25T23:41:00.000+09:00

Made with Loving Care.
I love sushi, but at 7:30am? After leaving the fish market, I opted for Soba noodles and tempura instead, and it was delicious!

More to come...

T

Styrofoam Hills of Tsukiji Fish Market.

2006-11-24T08:28:00.000+09:00

The Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market, otherwise known as Tsukiji Fish Market, is the world's largest fish market, moving 2000 tons of seafood per day. That comes to 700,000 metric tons per year, which has a value of 600 billion yen, or roughly $6 billion U.S. The empty styrofoam packaging seen here is a testament to the amount of seafood moved here per day.

Waste-deep in styrofoam.

More to come....

T

Under the Bridge II.

2006-11-23T19:41:00.000+09:00

One of my favorite things about Tokyo is the way in which spaces are used: under bridges, highways, expressways - any place an opportunity exists. In most cities, major transit routes effectively create walls or dead zones in the urban fabric. Here, the richness and vitality of Tokyo's urban character is allowed to extend in a relatively continuous fashion as automobiles and trains pass overhead.

Eatery Clinging to Overpass.
Small-scale spaces bring a strong sense of intimacy and humanity to a metropolitan area of nearly 35 million people. Economically, these spaces are more egalitarian. They have relatively lower rents which allow more people to own and run businesses, often in high-profile places.

Ginza 9.
Conversely, even upscale boutiques and restaurants occupy the spaces below expressways and railways - especially in Ginza.

Yamanote Train Line Above, Ameyoko Market Below.
Below these tracks lie some of my favorite haunts, from inexpensive and delicious kaiten-zushi, or conveyor belt sushi restaurants, to yakitoris that serve scrumptious BBQ on skewers, edamame, and tasty cold Sapporo or sake. And let's not forget my favorite noodle place, which serves up piping hot soba, or buckwheat noodles with crispy tempura on top.

Before I get carried away on a culinary track - the importance here is that in Tokyo, highly memorable spaces are created in spaces that are ordinarily ignored by many other cities in the world.

T

Ginza Nights.

2006-11-22T21:16:00.000+09:00

Sidewalk by Day, Runway by Night.
Tokyo is not among the world's most beautiful cities - that is, during the day. At night, it shines.

Louis Vuitton, Exterior by Jun Aoki.

Revisited: Evening at the International Forum, Designed by Rafael Vinoly.

Mikimoto Store, Toyo Ito

Sony Building, Yoshinobu Ashihara.

Lanvin Boutique, Hiroshi Nakamura.

Glass Brick Facade of Maison Hermes Building, by Renzo Piano.

Advertisment for the Highway Department?
I don't know what this sign is advertising, but I like it.

Revisited: Nakagin Capsule Tower Building, Kisho Kurokawa.

T

Sounds in the Park

2006-11-21T22:40:00.000+09:00

Beneath the Maple Tree, Sounds of the DJ.
It's always nice to stumble upon a free Sunday afternoon dance party in the park.

15 Minutes of...
For several hundred meters along the edge of Yoyogi Park, bands perform side by side for residents and tourists alike. Some bands attract small gatherings of people, while others might as well be practicing in their garage since no one is really listening. Either way, it's one of the most egalitarian performances spaces I've ever seen. As cities increasingly regulate space, it's surprising to encounter places like this.

T

Anomalies in Space.

2006-11-20T21:09:00.000+09:00

So you think this scene is from L.A. or Houston? Try the Shinjuku area of Tokyo. This is the same city where a sacred temple can be built above a flea market, or where a department store/pachinko parlour/food court is sandwiched between a metro station below and an expressway above. Instead, this quiet bus yard has a rather conventional relationship with the ground - it merely rests on it.

T

Stand Still, Move Forward.

2006-11-18T18:35:00.000+09:00

Businessmen pass behind a statue at Tokyo Opera City.
Toyo Ito currently has an exceptional exhibition at Tokyo Opera City Gallery replete with large-scale models - some at full size. Perhaps his most important work to date is the Sendai Mediatheque, but the Taichung Metropolitan Opera House in China will likely surpass that achievement.

Photography was not allowed in the gallery, so the following images are courtesy of the Hipercroquis website.

Though initially skeptical, I am impressed with Toyo Ito's integrated design strategy that makes concept, structure, systems, and function inseparable. In addition, his competition drawings (which are not available online) reveal the incredible amount of detail put into considering natural air flow and light, energy consumption, and the use of sustainable materials. Furthermore, with the integration of adjacent parks into the building, it seems that the Opera House will contribute to the vitality of the city.
Full-scale Formwork for Tod's on Omotesando. Amazing.

T

Friday Night Lights.

2006-11-18T00:08:00.000+09:00

Baseball seems to be a much bigger sport in Japan than in the U.S., the sport's birthplace. These school children practice pitching on a Friday evening near Roppongi.

Most sports surfaces in Tokyo are artificial. This artificial practice field lies in the shadow of Tokyo Tower.

Tokyo Tower itself is essentially anticlimatic; it is more of a shadow icon that appears in the background of our daily lives.

Glow Blocks.
Akabanebashi Metro Station is a beacon to those seeking to enter the mass underground people mover.

This Way And That Way.
An electronic billboard on the Shuto Expressway Loop directs drivers towards their destination.

T

Sing your Heart Out, Dave!

2006-11-17T12:09:00.000+09:00

David shows the room how to sing karaoke... Rebecca does a killer job on backup vocals, and the north-bound Yamanote train passes in the background.

T

Utopia, This Exit.

2006-11-16T21:56:00.000+09:00

Footbridge from the Yurakucho Metro Stop to Shinonome Canal Court.
Housing for the masses took on great importance during the twentieth century and was heightened by the post-World War II building frenzy in Europe. They began as Utopian government projects, but there has been a major shift over the past several decades towards development by private entities, with an emphasis on housing for the upper to upper-middle classes. Still, governments across the world provide tax breaks and financial incentives to private developers, especially when it comes to converting former industrial lands to new uses. The Docklands in London, which began in the 1980s, exemplify this type of development. With escalating gentrification and the demolition of historical properties, a new set of socio-economic and ideological issues have emerged from this type of development.

Tokyo's Shinonome Canal Project began in the 1990s as architects, planners, and government officials sought ways to transform an industrial waterfront property that operated until the early 1970s. Kengo Kuma and Toyo Ito were among the most prominent architects to contribute to this large scale development which sits just 5 kilometers from the center of Tokyo. Unlike the Docklands which boast the highrise commercial Canary Wharf tower, Shinonome Canal Project was geared towards developing housing, limited commercial development, parks, and infrastructure. And unlike other current Utopian projects, such as Vancouver's point tower model, this housing is mostly mid-rise. If Vancouver's model embraces slender "towers on a podium," Shinonome's model might be considered "block on a podium." As a result, there is less open space on the ground plane (i.e., less green space), but the housing is much less hierarchical and a bit more human-scale.

Screens.
Through the use of various modern materials, some amount of privacy is achieved between living spaces and commercial spaces at the ground level.

Common Voids.
The large voids in Toyo Ito's project provide common amenity spaces.

Commercial Cut.
The ground plane offers retail, preschools, gallery spaces, and more. The next level provides common space for residents; its separation from commercial activity lends it a more residential feel.

Public / Private.
Large master planned spaces tend to feel over-regulated and too well defined - just ask any Vancouverite living in Coal Harbour. Thus, it's encouraging to see that some residents here take the liberty to hang clothes under a public stair.

Gallery Space.

Extrusions.
These extruded spaces may provide a buffer of privacy between the interior and exterior spaces.

Bicycle Parking Garage.

The Local Grocery Store.

If you lived here, you would be home by now.

Semi-private spaces.
These areas are located a level above the commercial zone and provide the opportunity for mingling with neighbors... Though at this moment, there was no one to mingle with.

Room for Growth.

Screened Passages on Kengo Kuma's project.

T

Drawn to the Light[ness] II.

2006-11-15T20:07:00.000+09:00

...More shots from Tokyo's Aoyama/Harajuku area. It's as if the building above was dropped by a twister from Europe; I have seen nothing else like it in Tokyo.

Lost Girl /Future Prada Customer?
The Prada flagship building by Pritzker Prize winning firm Herzog & de Meuron possibly attracts as many architects as customers.

Solitary Customer Climbs Stair.
Mannequins in the Window.

T

Just Say No.

2006-11-15T20:01:00.000+09:00

Just say no... to everything.
This sign was seen near a busy public space in Ebisu and was clearly erected by fear from... hmmm, from bourgeois tourists? Who knows.

[note: I clearly risked extradition by photographing the sign that prohibits photography.]

T

Drawn to the Light[ness].

2006-11-15T00:14:00.000+09:00

Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa of SANAA designed the flagship Dior and HHstyle buildings in Aoyama. Whatever one may think of their architecture, it certainly lives up to the reputation for lightness and transparency.

T

Old Man & The City.

2006-11-13T22:08:00.000+09:00

I'm always impressed by the shear number of elderly people who bike, traverse endless flights of stairs at train stations, and walk block by block of the city. Tokyo moves fast, but these people refuse to be left behind. With this in mind, a friend of mine jokingly made the point that our American and Canadian brethren are perhaps all too eager to toss in the towel and go for the powered scooters.

With a fish-based diet, nationalized health care for all citizens, and exercise through routine activity, the Japanese have the fourth highest life expectancy in the world. Canada ranks ninth, and the U.S. - the world's number one superpower - rates behind Jordan and Bosnia / Herzegovina at number 29.

Waiting for his Train to Come In.
Public benches in the city are appallingly short on supply, but that probably stems from the uber-crowded nature of Tokyo. This man is waiting for the Yamanote train at Okachimachi Station.

T

Stacked Cars.

2006-11-13T21:09:00.000+09:00

Look carefully at the lit up button consoles above - they display the organization of parked cars on the tall oblong carousels. Unlike parking garages, these parking carousels obviate the need for ramps, allow for an efficiently packed building of cars, and take up a much smaller building footprint.

Turntables.
When the owner is ready to leave, the attendant brings the car down to ground level, backs it up onto the turntable, and spins the car around so that the owner can easily enter the busy street grid.

Lights are On, but Someone's Not Home.
Stacked cars are common with smaller scale housing as well.

T

Tokyo Rockabilly.

2006-11-12T23:09:00.000+09:00

These buskers in Tokyo's Yoyogi Park routinely mix rockabilly sensibilities with Elvis looks and of course, a few breakdance moves for good measure.

"Uh yeah, make that a dozen peanut butter / banana tempura for delivery. Uh thank ya, thank ya very much."

I've also posted awe-inspiring video footage here.

T

More Hakone.

2006-11-12T21:19:00.000+09:00

The trip from Shinjuku station in Tokyo to Hakone takes about 1.5 hours. Once in the area, a combination of train, funicular rail, gondola, ferry/pirate ship, and bus moves visitors through the area. Thus, the need for cars and parking is greatly reduced. In order to reduce smog and traffic jams, national parks such as Yellowstone and Yosemite desperately need to implement similar measures.

Smoking Mountainside.

Iconic Mt. Fuji.

Hordes of Visitors.
With 35 million people nearby, don't expect to find solitude on a trip to Hakone. The crowds were staggering, and this trip was made on a weekday. Of course, autumn also brings out particularly large crowds.

T

Arggh, matey-san!

2006-11-11T11:04:00.000+09:00

The scene felt like a strange hybrid of Japanese-Swiss Family Robinson and an overcrowded Haitian refugee boat. Naturally, someone made the brilliant decision to use faux pirate ships as passenger ferries on Lake Ashinoko, which lies in the shadow of Mt. Fuji. I'm not sure if the rampant use of kitsch across Japan is the result of poor taste or a wicked sense of humor, or some combination of the two. Whatever the cause, sometimes you just have to give in, take snapshots, and laugh.

Aaargh, nothing like me camera and beer in hand on the high seas.

An enemy pirate ship, er, ferry steers clear of our path.

More to come on the Japanese tourist mecca of Hakone...

T

O' Venerable Giant.

2006-11-11T00:22:00.000+09:00

Mt. Fuji, which rarely makes an appearance, was spotted today from the smoking valley of Hakone. In the foreground, the volcanic sulphurous springs of Hakone release toxic gasses into the air. More to come...

T

Light at the End of the Tunnel.

2006-11-10T00:45:00.000+09:00

After a long cavernous journey on the Yurakucho subway line, large Japanese maples and a brilliant blue sky are framed by an exit back into the city.

Parking on Parks?

2006-11-08T20:52:00.000+09:00

The Postcard View.
The Not-Rated-for-Postcard View.

What better way to enjoy the waning days of warmth than on a bed of soft grass in the sunshine? Nestled between Shinjuku and Shibuya, Yoyogi Park provides Tokyo a rare refuge from the built environment. Compared to other major cities, Tokyo rates poorly when it comes to dedicated park space per person. In fact, Tokyo residents have only 5 square meters of park space per person, compared with New York City's 25 square meters per person, for example. See The Trust for Public Land and Tokyo Planning sites for more info.

Sunbathing Cars?
When space is at such a premium, why is grass in one of Tokyo's prime parks used for parking? Try imagining this in New York's Central Park or London's Hyde Park! Whether you think as an economist or naturalist (or both), the situation is mindless.

To be fair, Yoyogi Park has Meiji Shrine - one of the city's most important shrines - and some nice woodland. Additionally, its park status was only established in 1967 after serving as a residential area for U.S. military and later as a site for the Olympics. Still, Tokyo's paltry park system needs to catch up with other world class cities.

T

Rivers of Discontent.

2006-11-07T20:16:00.000+09:00

Industrialized cities have traditionally had terrible relationships with waterways, and Tokyo is no exception to the rule. In many cases, elevated freeways simply follow the path of rivers. Aside from environmental concerns, aesthetic and economic opportunities are lost by this kind of mindless highway engineering.

Tangled Mess.

T

More Green Walls Sprouting.

2006-11-06T20:29:00.000+09:00

I've spotted another living green wall in the city; this one was on a construction site barrier near Tokyo Station.

The growing collection of vertical vegetation in Tokyo merely hints at a myriad of possibilities for more commonplace uses in the homes and offices of cities that strive to be more livable.

Yeah, it's real!

T

Tokyo Design Week.

2006-11-04T21:37:00.000+09:00

Designers from all over Japan and the world have descended down upon the city to celebrate Tokyo Design Week with exhibitions, installations, gallery showings, and more.

Sometimes simplicity produces the most startling effects. The balloons in these images were plugged with small lights, and their strings were secured to small battery packs on the ground. The movement of wind and people produces a hypnotizing effect.

T

Culture Day.

2006-11-03T23:28:00.000+09:00

Bunka No Hi, or National Culture Day.
Japanese Culture Day brings out families to Meiji Shrine, but the children steal the show.

Camera Hog.

Twirling.

Traditional Shrine in the Modern City Center.
Meiji Shrine provides a relatively peaceful green retreat in Tokyo's concrete jungle.

T

Clean Surfaces of Shimbashi.

2006-11-02T13:38:00.000+09:00

Though it's one of Tokyo's prime business districts, Shimbashi's sparkling surfaces and spotless sidewalks have a suburban office park quality to it.

Reflections of a Green Screen.

Aerial View.
The green screen in the previous photo can be seen abutting the expressway in the lower lefthand side of the photo. The translucent wall extends from the circular building, and you may be able to spot the crescent-shaped reflecting pool.
This image was provided by http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=347252&page=4.

Glass Elevation.

T

Subcenter Minor.

2006-11-01T21:04:00.000+09:00

Though Ueno is bright and glitzy, this neighborhood is a relatively minor subcenter of Tokyo. This shot was taken from a favorite perch in the neighborhood.

Rush Hour.

2006-11-01T00:44:00.001+09:00

Rush hour commuters head one direction at this train stop in Shinagawa - home.

T

Oz.

2006-11-01T00:29:00.000+09:00

Something about this scene made me think of the Wizard of Oz, when the Wicked Witch is transporting Toto on her bike... Naturally in the Tokyo version, these little dogs are small and in a cramped space...

T

Sunset on Ueno II.

2006-10-31T10:01:00.000+09:00

Shoppers crowd the streets of Ueno as night falls.

All I Want for Christmas...

2006-10-30T21:47:00.000+09:00

Sure to be on everyone's Christmas shopping list...

T

Towards a Better Office Building.

2006-10-30T20:13:00.000+09:00

Buildings use more fossil fuels and contribute more greenhouse gas emissions than cars. In fact, buildings and construction contribute to half of all greenhouse gas emissions in the U.S. When building design considers factors such as sun exposure and access to fresh air and natural light, less energy (and money) will be consumed. Better yet, building occupants will be more comfortable and happy.

Solar panels on this office building near Shibuya capture energy and shade the building from the intense afternoon sun.

Office BBQs Made Easy.
Look closely at this building (above) in Akihabara, and you may see something that you've never seen before: an office building with screened-in open-air balconies. While these spaces leave something to be desired, they are still better than the conventional hermetically sealed office buildings that most of us know and hate.

Fat, Dumb, and Unhappy.
Office buildings with fat floor plates, like this one near Ginza, should be a thing of the past. Germany, for instance, requires that each worker have access to natural light and fresh air (i.e, operable windows). This has resulted in thinner office buildings, which ultimately use less energy and provide greater worker comfort (and yes, productivity).

T

These Numbered Sultry Days.

2006-10-29T21:08:00.000+09:00

Couples (and third wheels) enjoy the last warm days of the season in Ueno Park.

Park with Flair.

2006-10-28T12:38:00.000+09:00

Why park your bike on the street when you can park it in a lot with flair?

T

Waiting for Sunset.

2006-10-28T12:26:00.000+09:00

Self-portrait.
The excess, artificiality, and emptiness of Odaiba create a contemplative backdrop in an otherwise hyperkinetic city.

T

Futuristic Buildings [From the Past].

2006-10-27T11:09:00.000+09:00

Perhaps more than any place in the world, Tokyo creatively exhibits ways to maximize space. Tokyo's Nakagin Capsule Apartment Building by Kisho Kurokawa (1971) was the world's first building to take on capsule living. Each apartment measures approximately three meters by five meters square, meaning that the bed takes up most of the space. Additionaly, each of these detachable capsules can be attached to a concrete core by four high-tension bolts. The capsules are pre-assembled offsite and come with necessary appliances already built-in.

Though extreme to outsiders, this mode of living is more realistic in Tokyo where shopping streets, restaurants, and public places are considered an extension of your living space. Visitors to Tokyo can experience this kind of living by staying at a capsule hotel.

Below is the Shizuoka Press & Broadcasting Building by Kenzo Tange (1967) near Ginza.

T

City on Brushed Chrome.

2006-10-26T22:00:00.000+09:00

City lights dance on brushed chrome near Tokyo Station...

Guardians of the Doorbell.

2006-10-26T21:28:00.000+09:00

I'd like to believe that the figures on these traditional roofs were meant to fend off door-to-door proselytizers, but somehow I doubt it.

T

Inside / Outside.

2006-10-26T21:01:00.000+09:00

Though the quality of these photos isn't great, one can get a sense for the relationship between interior and exterior spaces in traditional Japanese architecture. It's quite amazing to stand outside of a house, look through, and see greenery on the other side. Like most pre-modern architecture throughout the world, these buildings actually considered environmental factors such as sun exposure, cross-ventilation, light quality, etc.

T

Down by the Riverside.

2006-10-25T21:30:00.000+09:00

Along Kyoto's Kamo-gawa River, throngs of young Japanese and foreigners gather at night around various street performers. On this evening, fire dancers informally collaborated with a drum circle, while a few meters away, inebriated businessmen plunged into the river as a few unimpressed girlfriends sat idly by.

T

Japanese Bride.

2006-10-25T20:59:00.000+09:00

Don't ask how, but yeah, funny thing... I managed to sit amongst the guests of a traditional Japanese wedding in Nara. Women around me were sobbing, and I was just trying to understand what was going on, whilst taking a few snapshots. Handkerchief, anyone?

T

The Color & Texture of Time.

2006-10-24T20:48:00.000+09:00

What stories are told by a careful reading of surface qualities? Through growth, weathering, transmutation, or some other process, this set of photographs focuses on surfaces in Kyoto and Nara that reveal the passage of time.

Weathered Wood I.

Moss Colony.

Weathered Wood II.

Transformed by the Hand.
This wooden statue in Nara has been reputed to have healing powers, so oil from centuries of hands have transformed this into a haunting figure.

Two Roof Patterns.

Old Growth on Trellis.

Weathered Wood III.

Sand Deposition on Stone.

Inscriptions in Patinaed Bell Tower.

Transformed by the Hand II.
Centuries of contact with human hands have transformed the colors on these columns, but only within reach of the body.

Copper Shutter.

Oil on Clay.
These walls at Ryoan-ji were constructed from clay that was boiled in oil. Over time, the oil has seeped out of the clay to display beautiful patterns.

Light Patterns on Bamboo Fence.

Kyoto for the Soul.

2006-10-23T15:58:00.000+09:00

Home to cultural and spiritual Japan, Kyoto provides a quick escape from the realities of urban Japan. Perhaps more than any other place in the world, Japan displays two distant ends of the spectrum - frenetic futuristic cities alongside ancient spiritual and cultural treasures.

Exemplifying Japan's cultural heritage, the castles, imperial villas, and temples lack the gaudiness (or, bling-bling) of their European counterparts constructed near the same time. Instead, the beauty often lies in the craftsmanship, simplicity, and harmonious relationship with nature itself. The next several journal entries will be devoted to Kyoto...

Enchanted Mountainside.
Fushimi-Inari Taisha provides one of the most unusual and ethereal experiences in all of Kyoto. The complex consists of five shrines and four kilometers of trails covered by orange torii gates. The torii gates are placed closely enough so that the path oddly reads as one unified space that contracts and expands as one progresses through the sequence. Additionally, the varying distances between torri allow light to permeate in dynamically changing patterns, with the mood dramatically altering as the day progresses. Simply put, the effect is intense!

Torii Shadows.

Sylvan Apparitions.
As one moves through the forest, distant torii gates appear as glowing orange apparitions amongst amongst the thick vegetation.

T

Kyoto-bound.

2006-10-19T14:50:00.000+09:00

I will be gone for a few days in Kyoto, the cradle of Japanese culture, but posting will resume next week...

Breathe!
...Come up for air (and advertisements) when leaving the Tokyo Metro station in Omotesando.

T

Wherehouse Warehouse.

2006-10-18T22:37:00.000+09:00

Warehouses around the world are ubiquitous, yet strangely beautiful. And you can't help but wonder what the hell's in there... iPods? Defective Sony batteries? Pray tell.

The images below were shot near Tokyo Bay.

3-D - 3-B.

Juliette Balconies.

T

Farewell to the Dolls.

2006-10-18T10:53:00.000+09:00

Nearly 40,000 dolls of the deceased were expected to be collected at Meiji Shrine this past weekend. In similar ceremonies across Japan, the dolls are released from the owners' lives with prayers, and then they are incinerated. Read more from the Japan Times...

T

Step Inside the Mothership.

2006-10-17T16:12:00.000+09:00

Designed by Rafael Vinoly, the International Forum in Ginza is quite grand. Is this what it feels like to step inside a Mothership?

T

More Vegas than Vegas.

2006-10-17T10:42:00.000+09:00

In 1853, the man-made island of Odaiba was built in Tokyo Bay to protect Tokyo from attack by sea. After Expo '85, developers were throwing money at Odaiba to develop it as a futuristic entertainment complex. After the bubble burst in the late '80s, development slowed down, and its success is dubious at best.

Collage City.
This image appears as a collage of icons from around the world. You're looking at another Statue of Liberty (which was a gift from France in 2000), the Rainbow Bridge, and the brilliantly illuminatedTokyo Tower (which was built to emulate and surpass the height of the Eiffel Tower).

Sphere Lodged.
Because every good building needs a sphere lodged in it... Designed by Kenzo Tange, Fuji TV Studios features an observation deck in the titanium sphere.

Another Boardwalk.
Beyond the white sand beach and Tokyo Bay is the mainland.

Desolation Rows.
Build it, and they will come... Or not.

Hotel Lonely.

T

Harajuku Girls.

2006-10-15T18:28:00.000+09:00

What do you get when you cross a sexy French maid with a cutsie Bo-peep? The girls of Harajuku. Though they may stick out in a crowd, they hardly seem to represent a rebellious counterculture. Instead, these young girls gladly pose for photographers - many of them foreign - and in the process, they do what is not easy to do in a metropolitan area of 34 million: attract a lot of attention.

"Hey gringo, get outta my shot!"

Most of these girls carry suitcases, which ostensibly hold their normal day clothes for the return trip to the suburbs where they will studiously finish their homework.

The bridge over the Yamanote train line becomes the stage for Harajuku girls. Here they gain notoriety and even have their pictures posted on random blogs around the world.

T

New York Dreamin'.

2006-10-15T13:13:00.000+09:00

What do Japanese slackers dream of? From today's New York Times:

"She came to New York to heal. She came to dance, particularly the hip-hop moves she had practiced in Japan. And she came to New York, like thousands of other young Japanese, to find herself. As a Japanese version of slackers, such young people are often derided at home as selfish for drifting through part-time jobs or trying to develop talents in the arts — photography, music, painting, dance — rather than contributing to society by joining a corporation or marrying and having babies. The pressure can be intense."

The Faces of Sapporo.

2006-10-14T14:05:00.000+09:00

As one would expect, the free Sapporo beer museum is tacky and kitschy, but the beer advertisement posters from the early 1900's-present provide plenty of entertainment and cultural insight.

Classy.
"Olive and Sapporo? But of course!"

Mom.
"Moms heart beer!"

Rico Suave-san.
"Sapporo helps to lessen the aftertaste of tuna colon... "

Frumpy.
"Sometimes I like to curl up with a Sapporo and watch Bridget Jones's Diary."

Bikini girl.
"You really don't care what I'm selling, do you?" [taking a page from American-style advertising]

T

Apparition of a City.

2006-10-13T02:38:00.000+09:00

Through the haze of a warm afternoon, the city appears as an apparition beyond the stunted feathery trees near Imperial Palace. Tokyo Tower - the city's answer to the Eiffel Tower - looms in the horizon.

T

Nice Beer.

2006-10-12T15:22:00.000+09:00

Big city, small dwellings, and big beers... Under the tracks, Kirk enjoys a tasty cold Sapporo beer at my favorite yakitori joint in Ueno.

The first Sapporo beer was made in Japan by a German-trained brewmaster in 1876, and is now sold around the world. In 2006, the Japanese beer company announced that it would purchase Sleeman, Canada's third largest brewer [Molson, Canda's largest brewer was purchased by Coors in 2005].

The Values that Define a Society.

2006-10-11T21:06:00.000+09:00

As the world's second largest economy, Japan appears to be relatively oblivious to the global concerns associated with a hungry economic giant. The uniform lack of organic foods, unusually excessive packaging [bagging bags at the store is common practice], and an obsessive culture of consumption all suggest an indifference towards global environmental and labor practices, for example. This makes one wonder: Where is the counterculture?

For a critical but refreshing indictment of Japan's contemporary cultural condition, read "Beware of Beauty that Would Deceive a Nation" from The Japan Times.

In the image above, shoppers crowd a major Shibuya sidewalk.

From Vegetarian to This?

2006-10-11T20:03:00.000+09:00

When the first Westerners from Portugal entered Japan in the mid-1500's, the Japanese were offended and disgusted by Westerners' barbaric practice of consuming meat. Many Japanese at the time were, of course, Buddhist.

Fast forward to 2006..... CNN reports that "Mad for U.S. beef, herd heads to Tokyo eatery."

Your Neighborhood Market.

2006-10-10T20:12:00.000+09:00

Within walking distance from anyone's home in Tokyo, it seems that it is possible to find a narrow pedestrian-friendly marketplace where one can find fresh seafood, produce, baked goods, yakitori, and hairdressers in one convenient location. These areas typically lack a strong corporate presence and are usually demarcated by entrances that are somewhat reminiscent of Chinatown gates, though the Japanese counterparts are much less elaborate. This particular shopping area is near the Nippori station on the Yamanote line.

How much thinner would North Americans be if they simply walked to the places that they shopped?

T

The Birth of a Nuclear Power.

2006-10-09T23:24:00.000+09:00

Above, a couple looks out over Tokyo on an especially clear early autumn day, just hours after a nuclear test was carried out across the Sea of Japan.

After the Storm.

2006-10-09T23:04:00.000+09:00

Though it has been three days since a typhoon passed through the area, dead umbrellas remain forgotten on a street corner in Shinjuku. Litter is unusual in the world's most populous city, so this was quite a sight.

Massive Transit.

2006-10-08T11:55:00.000+09:00

The expanse and usage of Tokyo's metro and rail line is nothing less than staggering. Tokyo's subway lines carry over 7 million passengers per day and are operated by various private companies and government agencies. Additionally, the East Japan Railway (JR East) line, which serves Tokyo and connects to other large cities in the region, carries 16 million passengers daily. Annually, that comes to 5.9 billion passengers per year on the JR East, making it the largest passenger railway company in the world . Nationwide, 21.6 billion passengers use the JR system per year, compared with 1.7 billion in Germany and 1 billion passengers per year in the U.K.

Other facts for the JR East:
Number of stations: 1,697
Average Daily Train Runs: 12,527
Passenger Line Network: 7,527 km
Number of Employees: 77,009 (57,975 at parent company)

T

Living it up in Ginza.

2006-10-07T12:05:00.000+09:00

Home to some of the world's most expensive real estate, Ginza is probably Tokyo's most established upscale district. This tower is particularly striking, given its lightness and simplicity of form. I especially like the tranquil rooftop space that is revealed to passers-by below, drawing the eye towards the sky. Now, if only I could find a way to make it on the rooftop party guest list...

More to come this weekend....

2006-10-03T17:45:00.000+09:00

With a barrage of new English-hungry students and Kirk in town, you'll have to stay tuned until this weekend when I am able return to my daily journal. For now, here is a shot from the famous moss greenwall at Prada in Tokyo's fashion central - Aoyama & Harajuku.

T

That Thing You Do.

2006-09-28T01:28:00.000+09:00

Yes, that thing you must do... when in japan. So, it's been weeks, and we haven't done the most Japanese of social events - Karaoke - until now. Don't you just LOVE the black-lit seascape? Okay, I'll just let the pics speak for themselves.

Other News

2006-09-27T12:23:00.000+09:00

Going to hell in a hand basket? Japanese fret that quality is in decline...

Attempts to farm the prized bluefin tuna yields some success... Will sushi connoisseurs eat farmed bluefin?

Profiles of Three Japanese Architects [Or Exercises in Name Dropping?].

2006-09-26T12:27:00.000+09:00

Okay, so I'm not one for name-dropping, but than again, I don't get the opportunity to do it very often... I was at a backyard BBQ party the other night with other UBC and Japanese students, professors, and local architects. Three of those architects included Jun Aoki, Kengo Kuma, and Toyo Ito. Their work represents Japan's current generation of highly venerated and established architects, and it will only be a matter of time before photos of their work (from yours truly) are posted on this site. [In case you're wondering, we did not act like a bunch of excited school girls in their presence. The operative words here are "in their presence."]

For now, check out some of the works Jun Aoki, Kengo Kuma, and Toyo Ito. The photos in today's post were from the architects' respective websites.

T

City without a Center.

2006-09-25T12:25:00.000+09:00

Similar to L.A., Houston, or Atlanta, Tokyo lacks a discernable center. Since WWII, Tokyo's many subcenters have grown along major train stations, creating a dense sprawl. This image was taken from the 49th floor of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building - an enormous 243m tall complex housing government offices of Tokyo's 23 wards.

Fish Tales in the City.

2006-09-23T11:07:00.000+09:00

Stocked fishing ponds provide relief from the day-to-day city life in central Tokyo.

T

Cleaning Up... On Sushi.

2006-09-22T00:38:00.001+09:00

Not sure what to order? Sushi on a conveyor belt provides stimulating entertainment, a sense of responsibility (ie, "don't get that, hold out for something better!"), and a level of comfort with what your food is going to look like. Neon-yellow roe with mystery (and conveniently matching) yellow shreds? Uhh.. maybe next time. The only suprise is that this type of sushi joint exists in the gritty arcade in my neighborhood. The place is tiny, and everyone is huddled around the circular conveyor belt path.

The sushi was so delicious that I had forgotten to document the experience - until the plates were piled high. You're charged by the number of plates at your space. More sushi than I could eat (6 plates) + soup + green tea + beeru (that's beer, for you non-Japanese speaking folks) = $13. Best value in town? I think so. Well, that's still technically splurging, considering that you can eat out for as little as $4. Who said Tokyo's expensive?

T

Greenwalls Sprouting.

2006-09-21T09:27:00.000+09:00

The Prada flagship store in Omotesando may boast Tokyo's most famous greenwall, but other greenwalls are sprouting up around town. I don't know which one came first, but who cares? More moss is better. These stores were located in Daikanyama, where some of Tokyo's most fashionable trend-setters are quietly operating under the radar of tourist guidebooks.

Today's entry is for Parker!

When the Shopkeepers Sleep.

2006-09-20T09:21:00.000+09:00

After WWII, Ueno's Ameyoko Arcade was known as one of the city's prime black-market districts, and even now, the area seems to be one of Tokyo's grittier areas. After the shops shut down, the crowds shift a few blocks over to fill the pachinko parlours, seven-story karaoke joints, and dimly-lit caverns that satisfy those in search of more lascivious escapades.

With the absence of people and clutter of shopkeepers, the top image reveals the underbelly of the bridge as a machine that provides factory-like duct work and piping for water supply, ventilation of kitchens, electricity, and air-conditioning to the hundreds of shops and eateries below the train line.
The deserted arcade almost feels like an evacuation zone by night, though one shopkeeper perseveres a little longer than the rest. Is he hawking clearance items, or must he earn a few extra Yen for the day?

T

Yokohama Terminal.

2006-09-19T11:54:00.000+09:00

The Yokohama Terminal by Foreign Office Architects (UK) was one of the projects I was most excited to see. Modern shipbuilding techniques were considered in the construction of the terminal, which is evident in the form and aesthetics of the terminal. The most successful (and photographed) feature of the terminal is the rooftop, which has greenspace and an extensive topography that gives building occupants a way to freely weave in and out of the building in a multitude of ways.

Considering Tokyo's lack of public spaces where people can loiter, the rooftop serves an important community role of providing open spaces with greenery, promenades, and vantage points.

T

Sunset on Ueno.

2006-09-18T19:06:00.000+09:00

The sun may set in Tokyo, but the city goes on.

Shibuya.

2006-09-16T18:26:00.000+09:00

Tokyo's major subcenters have developed along the Yamanote ring route, and Shibuya is considered one of the most frenetec subcenters of all. Here one experiences hyper-sensory overload as every lighted billboard, printed word, and sound competes for your attention. In what is considered the busiest crosswalk in the world, the crowd pouring out of Shibuya station becomes a spectacle in and of itself.

Under the Bridge.

2006-09-15T19:18:00.000+09:00

Cabs wait patiently for passengers to file out of the train station.

It's remarkable how no space goes unnoticed or unoccupied. The space below the railway lines and freeways are used here by small eateries and vendors hawking everything imaginable. In other areas of town, these spaces are occupied by high-end department stores and restaurants. The unintended but beautiful consequence is that these places become cacophonous and disjunctive zones of activity, where anything can be expected.

Around the Neighborhood.

2006-09-14T18:41:00.000+09:00

Within a few km sq...

Ueno Park... Expressways snaking through the city... One of the 2M+ vending machines in the city... Unsecured bikes (the norm in Tokyo)... and sashimi in the market below my apt...

Pimp my crib.

2006-09-13T14:00:00.000+09:00

It felt good to arrive in Tokyo with an apartment lined up, and the price seemed like a steal. That was until we realized that it was actually a 30 minute walk from the train station and the shower was in fact a plastic tub with a garden hose of gushing cold water (which I suppose is better than a trickle, right?). My roommate Simon and I have since decided to transfer to other apartments within the same agency. Now, I am living on the 3rd level of a bustling marketplace, which is attached to the Ueno-Okachimachi station of Tokyo's main train line, the Yamanote. Now I can walk downstairs and purchase raw fish, shoes, jeans, golf clubs (pffft, golf), guns (as if), noodles, teriyaki, and play pachinko . The shops and vendors mostly close down at night, so it becomes remarkably quiet.

Across the alley and above the market rises a beautiful temple which seems incredibly out of place, but is a most welcome sight. Just a few more blocks away is Ueno Park, one of the largest and most important parks in the city.

T

Omotesando

Sidewalk of stars for the fashion designers and architects... From top to bottom are Tods, Dior, & Prada). The last two images are of "One Week in White," a temporary installation that appeared to occupy a future construction site.
(Omotesando pictures by Simon Montgomery)

Welcome to Tokyo. Why blog?

2006-09-13T13:44:00.000+09:00

Why Blog?

For the next several months, I'll be living in Tokyo, the world's largest mega-city at roughly 35 million people according to United Nations statistics. It has the sprawl and expressway network of L.A., with the energy and density of New York City. We can learn much here about the future of cities. Add to that an extraordinary appreciation for design and craftsmanship, and Japan becomes an ideal setting for a student of architecture to visit.

I hope this site helps me to do a better job of keeping in touch with those who aren't near. Join me on the journey!

T